The Obsidian Tear: Jet Buttons and the Victorian Era of Mourning
The hushed elegance of the Victorian era, a period steeped in elaborate rituals and deep-seated emotions, lends itself to poignant beauty. Amongst the myriad of mourning practices—the black crepe draping of furniture, the symbolic use of flowers, the wearing of mourning jewelry—the button holds a particularly resonant significance. Specifically, buttons crafted from jet, a dense, black gemstone, offer a tangible link to a time of profound grief and heartfelt remembrance. To discover a jet button in a vintage box or a collection is to hold a tiny echo of loss and devotion.
Jet, formed from fossilized wood, possessed a naturally lustrous, deep black hue that mimicked obsidian. Its relative abundance in Yorkshire, England, during the 19th century made it a readily available and affordable alternative to more precious materials like black onyx or mourning beads. While other dark materials like horn and ebonized wood were also employed, jet became synonymous with Victorian mourning attire and accessories.
The Language of Loss: Mourning Rituals and Fashion
Queen Victoria’s prolonged mourning following the death of her husband, Prince Albert, in 1861, profoundly influenced societal customs. Her unwavering dedication to mourning – she wore black for the remainder of her life – served as an example for the nation. Mourning became more than a personal expression of grief; it was a visible demonstration of respect and adherence to social norms. The "Victorian mourning code" dictated specific periods of mourning based on the relationship to the deceased, each phase involving distinct attire and jewelry. Jet, being relatively inexpensive, allowed individuals of all socioeconomic backgrounds to participate in this visible declaration of grief. The societal importance of buttons in this era extended beyond mourning; they were miniature works of art, reflecting the taste and status of their owners. Examining the breadth of button history reveals fascinating insights into social class and fashion trends—a topic explored in more detail in articles like Glimpses of Grandeur: Buttons and the Nobility.
During the early stages of mourning, known as "full mourning," black fabrics like crepe and bombazine were mandatory, and ornamentation was severely limited. Jet buttons, often in simple, understated designs, were an integral part of mourning dresses, coats, and shawls. As time passed, more elaborate designs emerged, sometimes incorporating jet with other materials like seed pearls or silver. The depth of the loss dictated the permitted level of ornamentation – a greater loss allowed for more intricate jet buttons.
Craftsmanship and Design: A Microcosm of Victorian Skill
Examining a jet button closely reveals the remarkable skill of Victorian button makers. The material, though dense, was brittle and prone to cracking, demanding precision and care in its processing. Some jet buttons were carved from solid blocks, revealing an astonishing level of detail, particularly in intricate floral or geometric patterns. Others were constructed from multiple layers of jet, held together with a metal shank, a testament to the ingenuity of the era’s craftsmen. Collecting these small treasures is a dedicated pursuit for many, with enthusiasts painstakingly cataloging and preserving these historical fasteners. For those interested in the nuances of this hobby and the broader world of button collecting, the Button Collector's Archive: Preserving the Past, One Fastener at a Time offers a wealth of information.
The designs themselves offer a window into the aesthetics of the period. Floral motifs—roses, lilies, forget-me-nots—were common, symbolizing remembrance and the fragility of life. Geometric patterns, sometimes echoing architectural styles, added a touch of elegance to the somber attire. The quality of the shank, often made of brass or steel, is also a key indicator of the button’s age and value. A well-crafted shank, neatly integrated into the jet, suggests a higher-quality button.
I recall finding a small box of buttons at an antique market years ago. Amongst the usual assortment of bone and horn, a single jet button caught my eye. It was a simple round shape, but the depth of the black was mesmerizing. Holding it, I felt a strange connection to the person who once wore it, a silent witness to their grief and their devotion. It wasn't a valuable button, but it held an immeasurable emotional weight. The stories held within antique buttons are captivating, revealing a glimpse into the lives of those who came before us – their fashion choices, their social standing, and the significant events that shaped their lives. But beyond the narratives contained within the buttons themselves, there's also the beauty of the materials and the artistry involved in their creation. The careful selection of shells to create mother-of-pearl buttons, for example, requires a keen eye and a deep understanding of the natural world – a fascinating intersection of art and nature explored in detail elsewhere.
Beyond Remembrance: Jet Buttons in Everyday Life
While predominantly associated with mourning, jet buttons weren’t exclusively reserved for funeral attire or mourning periods. They also appeared on everyday clothing, particularly for those who desired a more formal and elegant appearance. Their deep black color was a sophisticated alternative to more commonplace materials like brown or grey. The techniques used to create these buttons varied widely, from simple carving to intricate layering and inlay work, all demanding a high level of skill and precision. The beauty of these antique buttons goes beyond their aesthetic appeal; they represent a tangible link to a bygone era, a testament to the creativity and craftsmanship of the Victorian age. The materials used in button-making often yielded stunning results, and the examination of these materials—the subtle iridescence of mother-of-pearl, the depth of color in jet—reveals a fascinating world of natural beauty. The selection of materials played a crucial role in the final appearance and value of the button, and the understanding of these materials is essential for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
The enduring appeal of jet buttons also extended beyond the Victorian era. They experienced revivals in popularity during the Aesthetic Movement and again in the 1920s, demonstrating a consistent fascination with their unique color and textural qualities. These later iterations often incorporated more stylized designs and incorporated the buttons into more playful and fashionable garments.
Collecting and Caring for Jet Buttons
For button collectors, jet buttons represent a fascinating piece of social and fashion history. Identifying authentic jet can be challenging, as it was frequently imitated using other dark materials. A genuine jet button will feel heavy and dense, and will often exhibit a subtle sheen when polished. A magnet will *not* stick to genuine jet; imitation materials often contain iron. The presence of “checking” – small cracks or fissures in the surface – is common with older jet, a testament to its age and the stresses it has endured. Examining these details, along with hallmarks and maker’s marks, requires a keen eye and a comprehensive understanding of button history. The intricacies of distinguishing genuine materials and identifying manufacturer marks can be daunting, but also incredibly rewarding for dedicated collectors.
Caring for jet buttons requires gentle handling. Avoid exposing them to harsh chemicals or prolonged sunlight, which can damage the material. A soft cloth can be used to polish the surface and restore their luster. Restoration, while sometimes attempted, should be undertaken with extreme caution, as improper methods can further damage the fragile material. It’s often best to simply appreciate their aged appearance, accepting them as tangible reminders of the past. The meticulous details involved in understanding the materials used in button making, and the processes used to identify manufacturers’ marks, demonstrate the dedication required to truly appreciate these historic treasures. The intricate designs and superior craftsmanship of antique buttons are a testament to a time when objects were made to last, and their beauty was cherished for generations.
The discovery of a jet button is more than just a find for a collector; it’s a glimpse into the lives of those who came before. They're small objects that contain multitudes—grief, devotion, artistry, and a tangible link to a fascinating era. Holding one evokes a sense of profound connection to the past and a deeper appreciation for the delicate beauty of remembrance. These small treasures embody the spirit of a bygone era – the elegance, the craftsmanship, and the deep connection to tradition. The beauty of these objects is in their ability to connect us to the past, reminding us of the lives of those who came before us. The stories woven into the materials, the artistry involved in their creation, and the emotions they evoke all contribute to their enduring appeal.
